One area where I struggle with sewing is in the efficiency gained by making the same pattern several times. For me it is much more exciting to make something totally new and different, but that is also more time consuming. I am trying to be more practical in my sewing and make items that I need in my wardrobe rather than sewing whatever tickles my fancy, as I have been the last few years.
Ok, maybe a little of what tickles my fancy thrown in!
Really, I want to reduce my reliance on RTW clothes, and do that, I need to sew what I need to wear.
With this is in mind I set out to make McCall's 7313 for the first time, thinking it could become a "tried and true" (TNT) pattern for me. Yes, I see the irony of making something for the first time with the goal of repeating patterns more often!
I was attracted to this pattern because it 1) looked simple 2) I liked the general A-line shape 3) it had two necklines and several sleeve options 4) knit dresses are quick & easy to churn out. The sleeve choices were a big factor because I like dresses with sleeves for work and it helps to make the dress look different from the others. Also while the only finishing option was for the neckline and sleeve edge to be hemmed, I know I could easily make a neckband for future versions.
The one downside, there are no pockets. Are you listening McCall's pattern designers? Give me pockets! I added them of course. I used the pockets for Simplicity 8380 because it was still out and was also a knit dress with inseam pockets.
I made this is in a fun single-brushed poly print from Cali Fabrics. I liked the urban vibe it had.
Alterations I made
I made view A with the boat neck, short sleeves and knee length hem. I made a size 14 bust graded to a 16 waist/hip.
According the pattern envelope I should be an 18 waist and 20 hip but those are not in the same size envelope as the size 14 bust I need. When I measured the pattern pieces, it seemed like there was much more ease in the waist and hip than needed, so I decided to grade only to a 16 and I am glad that I did. The recommended size 20 would have been huge.
I lowered the center of the boat neck about an inch because it was puritanically high. I did this by folding the bodice front in half (I had already cut it) and drawing the new slope with my French curve with some chalk and then cutting through both layers. I just eyeballed the new slope with what I thought would look good. I didn't want it to be too steep because I thought it would be harder to turn the hem under.
And of course I added inseam pockets, as I said above.
I traced off all of my pieces on bee paper so that I can use the other version of the pattern, especially the necklines more easily.
Ease of construction
The construction was a breeze. I spent a few hours total over two days to make this dress. I surged most of the dress together and used a double stretch needle on my machine to finish the neck, sleeves and hem. The only area that I found challenging was feeding the elastic into the casing for the waist. It seemed like the casing was very snug for the elastic, even though I actually made it slightly larger than the directions called for but all things considered this was a minor issue.
Fit
After my alterations, there is one minor fit issue that I will need to correct the next time around. The back neckline is too large for me and gapes open a little bit. I exaggerated it a little bit for the photo below, during normal wear it's less pronounced.
I will remove approximately 1 inch from there for the next version. I am not sure exactly how I will do that, since it's cut on the fold and I only want to remove it from the top. I could a dart but I'd rather not have to make a dart on every dress going forward.
I'll give it a think. Suggestions are welcome! Update: I took a wedge out of the center of the back piece and it fixed this gaping issue. :)
Overall
I really love how easily this dress came together and I look forward to making more with some fun fabrics! I have a black fabric with red roses on stand-by for the next edition.
Update
I've now made 3 versions of this dress and I love it! It's so easy to whip up and throw on. I always add pockets which makes it perfect.
Version two was in a floral knit from Cali Fabrics, I did a scoop neck and altered the sleeve to be a flutter sleeve. If I did it again, I'd make the flutter a little more exaggerated.
Version 3 was a full franken-pattern! I added the pockets as normal and hacked the sleeve from another top pattern to fit this dress as an in-set sleeve. See a post on the full process of that dress here.
Ok, maybe a little of what tickles my fancy thrown in!
Really, I want to reduce my reliance on RTW clothes, and do that, I need to sew what I need to wear.
With this is in mind I set out to make McCall's 7313 for the first time, thinking it could become a "tried and true" (TNT) pattern for me. Yes, I see the irony of making something for the first time with the goal of repeating patterns more often!
The one downside, there are no pockets. Are you listening McCall's pattern designers? Give me pockets! I added them of course. I used the pockets for Simplicity 8380 because it was still out and was also a knit dress with inseam pockets.
 |
| Check out my pockets! And dog photo bomber :-) |
I made this is in a fun single-brushed poly print from Cali Fabrics. I liked the urban vibe it had.
Alterations I made
I made view A with the boat neck, short sleeves and knee length hem. I made a size 14 bust graded to a 16 waist/hip.
According the pattern envelope I should be an 18 waist and 20 hip but those are not in the same size envelope as the size 14 bust I need. When I measured the pattern pieces, it seemed like there was much more ease in the waist and hip than needed, so I decided to grade only to a 16 and I am glad that I did. The recommended size 20 would have been huge.
I lowered the center of the boat neck about an inch because it was puritanically high. I did this by folding the bodice front in half (I had already cut it) and drawing the new slope with my French curve with some chalk and then cutting through both layers. I just eyeballed the new slope with what I thought would look good. I didn't want it to be too steep because I thought it would be harder to turn the hem under.
And of course I added inseam pockets, as I said above.
I traced off all of my pieces on bee paper so that I can use the other version of the pattern, especially the necklines more easily.
Ease of construction
The construction was a breeze. I spent a few hours total over two days to make this dress. I surged most of the dress together and used a double stretch needle on my machine to finish the neck, sleeves and hem. The only area that I found challenging was feeding the elastic into the casing for the waist. It seemed like the casing was very snug for the elastic, even though I actually made it slightly larger than the directions called for but all things considered this was a minor issue.
Fit
After my alterations, there is one minor fit issue that I will need to correct the next time around. The back neckline is too large for me and gapes open a little bit. I exaggerated it a little bit for the photo below, during normal wear it's less pronounced.
I will remove approximately 1 inch from there for the next version. I am not sure exactly how I will do that, since it's cut on the fold and I only want to remove it from the top. I could a dart but I'd rather not have to make a dart on every dress going forward.I'll give it a think. Suggestions are welcome! Update: I took a wedge out of the center of the back piece and it fixed this gaping issue. :)
Overall
I really love how easily this dress came together and I look forward to making more with some fun fabrics! I have a black fabric with red roses on stand-by for the next edition.
Update
I've now made 3 versions of this dress and I love it! It's so easy to whip up and throw on. I always add pockets which makes it perfect.
Version two was in a floral knit from Cali Fabrics, I did a scoop neck and altered the sleeve to be a flutter sleeve. If I did it again, I'd make the flutter a little more exaggerated.
 |
| Flutter sleeve hacking! |
 |
| Not quite done! |
Version 3 was a full franken-pattern! I added the pockets as normal and hacked the sleeve from another top pattern to fit this dress as an in-set sleeve. See a post on the full process of that dress here.
Version 4 was a tank dress and a finished the armhole and neckline with bands instead of hemming them as instructed by the pattern directions. I think this makes the neckline a little high and I should've scooped it down a little bit. This adorable llama print was from Spotlight (an Australian chain which is like Joann's mashed with a Bed Bath and Beyond!), from my trip to Australia.
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