Hello sewing friends! I have been sewing up a storm but blogging about it has taken a back seat, I have a lot of new projects and some past ones, that I can update with more photos of new versions. Stay tuned for more!
Today, I'm going to give you the low-down on Ellie and Mac's popular South Shore Romper. I was really slow to warm to this pattern, despite it looking cute on everyone! I made it last year for the first time with a lot of enthusiasm but I HATED the outcome of mine but people kept posting cute ones online over and over again so I finally decided to give it another try.
It might not have happened if we hadn't been under a shelter-in-place order for the last month because of the COVID-19 outbreak; it's amazing how much sewing I can get done when basically all socializing is cut off. When I go back to work, I will probably have a month's worth of new outfits to wear.
So this was my horrible version from last year...sorry for the bathroom mirror selfie.
It might be partially the fabric I chose, but it looked like PJs and totally washed me out. Also the double brushed poly I used was really annoying to sew, super sticky. It wasn't a pleasant sewing experience. However, the real problem is that the pants are high-waters! I ended up turning this into a dress and I have worn it a few times, so it wasn't a total loss.
So with this experience, I set out to try again and I'll tell you what I changed for round 2 under the alterations section!
Fabric
All of the fabric I used for these was from LA Finch Fabrics. The grey floral was a double brushed poly, the purple is a jersey knit and the blue and yellow palm print is an ITY.
Alterations - side waist
I looked at a bunch of pictures from other people's South Shores before diving in again and it became really clear that I hated mine because where the bodice meets the pants is way too high, the pants end up looking so weird gathered over the tummy. In the pattern instructions, it tells you to adjust the bodice based on your side waist measurement, which is the distance between your armpit and natural waist (this is explained in the pattern instructions).
Now, normally your natural waist is where your torso bends if you tilt to the side a la a my little teapot. Mine is fairly high up, so anything cut there has more or less an empire waist look on me. Uh yeah this is way too high to wear my pants. In looking at the versions other people made, I could see that they did not have this at their natural waists, but lower.
So, if you make this pattern, for these instructions, I would interpret "natural waist" to mean "height you want your pants to be" and adjust the bodice length accordingly. The first time, I removed .5" from it and the versions I liked, I added 2".
Alterations - other ones
When I make pants, I also have to add additional space around the bum and front rise. I measured the front/rear crotch lengths and make sure I have some ease there. I had added length to the pants in the rise (where it goes to meet the bodice) in the first version but after I added to the bodice, I took it back off. I did add still to the front and rear crotch, I did this by blending into the larger sizes to give me more space. I am not sure anymore exactly how much I added because I did it last year but after wearing my new versions for a few days, I think I could take a little more out of the front.
Keep in mind you need extra ease for when you sit down.
Aside from that, I just graded from a large top to an XL waist/hip and I made my shorts longer than the shorts line on the pattern piece. On the original grey version, I made the band double width as I had seen a version like that I liked. It does give you more coverage but it also makes it harder to take on/off because there's less space.
On my original, I put sleeves in and they are tighter than I'd like, I used the armbands for my new ones so if I do sleeves again I think I will need to grade or do a full arm adjustment, or you know, start lifting weights.
Other thoughts...
If you do not want to tape together ~75 pages, I would strongly suggest having the A0 printed. I always tape mine together but I regretted it when I did this pattern. It's a lot of pages! If you are only making shorts, don't print the full pants pieces, only do it to the shorts line and you'll save yourself some pages.
Lastly, the wrap-over style is a little boob-a-licious. I might put a little snap or hook and eye on mine to make them more office-appropriate, when I can leave my house again!
Now, I have to say I love this pattern and might be making a whole closet full of them! It's a good thing I ordered clear elastic in bulk. It's so easy to wear and I'm a big of fan of outfits that are 1 piece for the whole look!
Here is my 4th version with a hacked flutter sleeve. I also decided to lower the armhole .5" as I was feeling like it was a little high on me (see that photo above) and I went up to an XL on the bodice. The L size is what I measure and it fit me but I was wanting it to be a little roomier in this one, room for me to eat pie :)
The fabric is an ITY from Whiskey Tango Fabrics and it has lovely little texture dots on it! This outfit is totally secret pajamas.
Today, I'm going to give you the low-down on Ellie and Mac's popular South Shore Romper. I was really slow to warm to this pattern, despite it looking cute on everyone! I made it last year for the first time with a lot of enthusiasm but I HATED the outcome of mine but people kept posting cute ones online over and over again so I finally decided to give it another try.
It might not have happened if we hadn't been under a shelter-in-place order for the last month because of the COVID-19 outbreak; it's amazing how much sewing I can get done when basically all socializing is cut off. When I go back to work, I will probably have a month's worth of new outfits to wear.
So this was my horrible version from last year...sorry for the bathroom mirror selfie.
It might be partially the fabric I chose, but it looked like PJs and totally washed me out. Also the double brushed poly I used was really annoying to sew, super sticky. It wasn't a pleasant sewing experience. However, the real problem is that the pants are high-waters! I ended up turning this into a dress and I have worn it a few times, so it wasn't a total loss.
So with this experience, I set out to try again and I'll tell you what I changed for round 2 under the alterations section!
Fabric
All of the fabric I used for these was from LA Finch Fabrics. The grey floral was a double brushed poly, the purple is a jersey knit and the blue and yellow palm print is an ITY.
This was my muslin for the re-try. I made shorts so I'd use less fabric! My belt is also a little short because I didn't have enough fabric. Make it work! |
Alterations - side waist
I looked at a bunch of pictures from other people's South Shores before diving in again and it became really clear that I hated mine because where the bodice meets the pants is way too high, the pants end up looking so weird gathered over the tummy. In the pattern instructions, it tells you to adjust the bodice based on your side waist measurement, which is the distance between your armpit and natural waist (this is explained in the pattern instructions).
Now, normally your natural waist is where your torso bends if you tilt to the side a la a my little teapot. Mine is fairly high up, so anything cut there has more or less an empire waist look on me. Uh yeah this is way too high to wear my pants. In looking at the versions other people made, I could see that they did not have this at their natural waists, but lower.
So, if you make this pattern, for these instructions, I would interpret "natural waist" to mean "height you want your pants to be" and adjust the bodice length accordingly. The first time, I removed .5" from it and the versions I liked, I added 2".
Alterations - other ones
When I make pants, I also have to add additional space around the bum and front rise. I measured the front/rear crotch lengths and make sure I have some ease there. I had added length to the pants in the rise (where it goes to meet the bodice) in the first version but after I added to the bodice, I took it back off. I did add still to the front and rear crotch, I did this by blending into the larger sizes to give me more space. I am not sure anymore exactly how much I added because I did it last year but after wearing my new versions for a few days, I think I could take a little more out of the front.
Keep in mind you need extra ease for when you sit down.
Aside from that, I just graded from a large top to an XL waist/hip and I made my shorts longer than the shorts line on the pattern piece. On the original grey version, I made the band double width as I had seen a version like that I liked. It does give you more coverage but it also makes it harder to take on/off because there's less space.
On my original, I put sleeves in and they are tighter than I'd like, I used the armbands for my new ones so if I do sleeves again I think I will need to grade or do a full arm adjustment, or you know, start lifting weights.
Other thoughts...
If you do not want to tape together ~75 pages, I would strongly suggest having the A0 printed. I always tape mine together but I regretted it when I did this pattern. It's a lot of pages! If you are only making shorts, don't print the full pants pieces, only do it to the shorts line and you'll save yourself some pages.
Lastly, the wrap-over style is a little boob-a-licious. I might put a little snap or hook and eye on mine to make them more office-appropriate, when I can leave my house again!
Is this a vacation outfit or what? |
Now, I have to say I love this pattern and might be making a whole closet full of them! It's a good thing I ordered clear elastic in bulk. It's so easy to wear and I'm a big of fan of outfits that are 1 piece for the whole look!
Update: here was my 3rd version in a nylon-spandex swim knit. I raised the front crotch 1" from where I had lowered it and I think it's even better fit for me now! I am not exactly sure where this fabric came from but it wasn't from LA Finch like the others above. Side note: I really like making clothes for summer from swim knit!
Here is my 4th version with a hacked flutter sleeve. I also decided to lower the armhole .5" as I was feeling like it was a little high on me (see that photo above) and I went up to an XL on the bodice. The L size is what I measure and it fit me but I was wanting it to be a little roomier in this one, room for me to eat pie :)
The fabric is an ITY from Whiskey Tango Fabrics and it has lovely little texture dots on it! This outfit is totally secret pajamas.
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