Skip to main content

McCall's 7621 - cold shoulder dress

McCall's 7621 would make the perfect summer dress and in the right fabric, would be great for wearing to a wedding.  I made it because I ordered some new fabric and realized that I still hadn't used...any...of the fabric I had ordered about a month prior. Whoops.

I made view D with sleeve option B. I was planning to make view D out of a sparkly knit that I had but at the last minute I decided to use a floral Liverpool knit and thought the flouncy sleeve (sleeve B) would be more appropriate for this summery fabric. I might make it in the sparkle fabric as a straight view D in the future, that would make a cute party dress.

Alterations
Based on the size chart, I graded from size large at the bust to x-large for the hip size but then it ended up being a little big in the waist/hip when sewn and I had to take it back in a smidgeon. I would probably be ok with a straight size large.

See that weird bulky area? That's basically where I graded out, and it was sticking out because it was too big. I pinned it and took it in a little to eliminate it.


I also added two inches to the length to make it kneed length for me. I'm almost 5'8" and adding two inches to this made it perfect when I hemmed it. 

Directions
This is a pretty simple sew, so it wasn't hard to put together but I found the directions to be a little vague. I had to read the glossary twice to see what they were talking about! For example, it says to double stitch some of the seams, and I double check that meant to sew them twice. I have never seen this direction before, so far as I recall, so I had to check! I serged the main part of the dress together instead of double stitching.

There are also several places where the instructions say to make a narrow hem, for example, around the neckline. It's kind of a pain to hem around a curved area, even with a knit that stretches a little bit. Since knits don't fray, I put some knit stabilizer around the neckline (see left photo below) and stitched it down with a double needle. I finished around the shoulder the same way (right photo shows finished under-arm seam on the sleeve). Even still, I had to clip it a few times to get it to lay down when it was turned under (see middle photo below). 

On the hem, I did fold it under, as directed, but I hemmed it using a double needle for consistency.


It came together really fast, only 2 days from start to finish and I really only worked on it a few hours. It doesn't have pockets, I thought about adding some but since it's close fitting, I didn't think it would look good. Maybe next time, I will add some anyway :)

I am looking forward to wearing this when the weather is nicer! Unfortunately we are having a snow storm now so it might be a little bit of wait before I can take it out for a spin! Then I can add some better pics of me wearing it!

Update - version two!
The original floral version of this dress is one of my favorite makes from this year and I always get a bunch of compliments on it! I made a second version in a blue sparkly knit from Cali Fabrics to wear to a wedding. For this version I combined views D (front and sleeves) and C (back) and adjusted the back not to have a collar but rather attached the opening together at the top with a cross piece. 

This time, I made a straight size large and it fits just fine.

This knit is a little on the thin side, so I reinforced the shoulders with clear elastic. I bought a giant roll on amazon which has been great for this kind of thing! It's a little less stretchy than regular white elastic. I serged into the seam when serging the shoulders together. It's a little tricky to have the elastic lined up in exactly the right spot but not too bad with some practice.

One area that the pattern is way off is the length of the sleeves. Look at this photo! I have pretty long arms and often add a little extra to long-sleeve patterns but this time I had to take off several inches.

I didn't really like the look of the collar, but the back needs some kind of connection at the top to hold it together. I just serged together a piece of 2" wide fabric to a make a tube and then pinned it on based on how the back fit my dress form. I probably could have made it a little shorter.

I just bought a coverstitch (CS) machine and this was my first project using it. The first time, I finished my edges with a double needle, this time I used my CS to go around the back hole, around the neckline & across the connector piece, around the sleeve holes and to hem it. I worked great but I could use a little practice, this thinner knit is also not very forgiving. 


This post may contain affiliate links, if you make a purchase using one of these links this blog may receive a small commission. Thank you for your support of my fabric habit!

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

George and Ginger 40k Sway - Pattern Review

Final product - 40k Sway George and Ginger Patterns gave the 40k Sway pattern away to celebrate having 40,000 members in their Facebook group. Look at how cute that neckline is? Of course I had to make this super cute freebie. As an extra bonus, there are directions for making a functional placket opening or faux opening. I opted for the faux placket because it's marginally easier and I have no reason that I need the opening to work but if you needed access to a port or to breastfeed, this top design would be great! I measure a size L12 (full bust 38") but I was at the top of the size range and worried it wouldn't fit in my arms so I decided to go up to an L14 and graded out to an XL16 hip. I checked my fabric stretch before sewing it as I was using a French Terry which is not always very stretchy. My fabric had 50% horizontal stretch and minimal vertical stretch (maybe 10%); the pattern says it needs 50% 2-way stretch so I thought I would be fine. Um.....no....It was way

George and Ginger Little Black Bra - pattern review

I have been obsessed with the George and Ginger Lovesick Bralette {now called the Little Black Bra} for the last few weeks. I have made 3   5  a million of them in these past few weeks! I've been sewing up a storm during the Shelter-in-Place orders from COVID-19 and thee bralettes have been perfect to wear when lounging around or working from home. This is the first and at this point, the only bra I have ever made. This pattern was really attractive to me because I didn't need any special supplies, I could make it from fabric I already had. I actually made all of these from swim/athletic knit scraps I had left over. Also, it's a free pattern! If you go the the George and Ginger Facebook group , you can download the pattern for free. It's available in sizes 29AA-48E. Since I used swim fabric, I could also wear these as swimsuit tops. I might make some solid black swim bottoms so I can wear whatever tops I feel like wearing. Pattern tips I never print my patterns

M7574 - raglan top or dress

 I liked M7574 so much I accidentally bought two copies. Whoops! I got around to making it around Thanksgiving for a Christmas shirt. I made length C with sleeves B for a long sleeve shirt. I had looked around for a holiday print knit for weeks and couldn't find anything I liked when by chance I hit the jackpot on the Joann's clearance table! This was a red llama fabric cotton knit with a small amount of spandex, I think 3%. The black sleeves are double brushed poly that I had in my stash, which I think was from LA Finch Fabrics. Pros I didn't realize it until I made the pattern but the raglan sleeve is curved on the front. I really like this and it adds some nice interest to the top. It has a two piece sleeve, which I love! You don't usually see this on a knit pattern and I really like the contour that it adds. The back seam is also contoured nicely. If it's going to be cut in two pieces it shouldn't be straight! That is a pattern pet peeve of mine, it's n